I hope from my last post you got
something of a flavour of Bolivia's natural beauty. The vast,
untouched areas of this land provide great enjoyment for those
intrepid enough to explore. I also wanted to give you a flavour of
life in the city of Cochabamba, where I lived for two months, and
some snapshots of everyday Bolivian life.
Let's start with what always ends up
being my priority: the food. Cochabamba has a bit of a reputation as
being the foodie capital of Bolivia, but it took me a while to
separate the wheat from the chaff (so to speak) and sample some
really good food. For the first month in the city I was living with a
family in a homestay, so that I could really experience Bolivian life
and to improve my Spanish quickly. This meant that I had all of my
meals cooked for me by my wonderful Madre Boliviana (Bolivian Mother)
Tania, so although I got a good feel for home cooking Bolivian-style,
I didn't get to sample much of the street food and traditional
delicacies until after I'd moved out of her house.
A typical meal at home, with added salad!
Madre Boliviana
Tania is an extremely hard-working,
enterprising woman, with many irons in the fire for earning a living
for her family. Her husband drives a Micro (pronounced 'mee-crow'),
one of the garishly-painted buses which carry passengers all over the
region, so spends much of his time away from home. Tania has built an
annex to her home to house lodgers, earning her rental income, and
she also has a little 'tienda' (shop) at the front of her house, with
stock similar to a regular corner shop in the UK or elsewhere, where
her 93-year-old father-in-law earns his keep by serving customers, as
well as tending the garden and fetching the morning bread. Every day
Tania cooks for 30 people – her family, the five of us lodging with
her, and the rest packed up in tupperware boxes and sent out to
various third parties for a small fee. Meals are therefore by
necessity something which can be easily and cheaply cooked en masse
and transported – invariably rice, potatoes and some kind of meat
(chicken thigh or leg, mincemeat etc). Vegetables and salad made a
rare but welcome appearance in the Arnez household in the month I was
there. (Her 'two-carbs-and-meat' diet put some squidgy padding around
my belly which I affectionately call my 'Tania layer' and which is
now slowly disappearing with the fresh, light fare of the
Mediterranean.) Her family often came to sit with us while we ate,
and we enjoyed getting to know them, in particular little 'Gabito'
(Gabriel) her grandson, who was a chubby-cheeked little monkey,
ruling the roost in that household as so many sole children do!
Fellow housemates Cristina and Donna with adorable kitty Celeste
Each day Donna would write out what meals we would be home for
Little Gabito ruling the roost!
Cuddling Celeste
Look at those eyes!
Alex and Gabito
Drinking Chicha for Donna's farewell
Tania is a robust, no-nonsense woman,
with a stern motherly hand, a cheeky glint in her eye, and a mountain
remedy for every ailment. When I caught sunstroke and was laid in bed
feverish and ill one evening, she burst into my room with a tray full
of sliced tomatoes and proceeded to layer them on my face and chest,
soaking up the heat and putting the tomato's acidity on my skin. When
one of my housemates caught a stomach bug they were placed on a
strict diet of tea and crackers for three days, gazing longingly at
the full plates of the rest of us. Tania sure can tell a story, too.
Even with my limited Spanish her mealtime tales brought tears of
laughter to my eyes. I will remember my time at her house fondly, and
I really appreciated her maternal influence while so far away from
home.
Tania and her daughter Gaby
Alex helps Tania skewer Anticucho
Cristina's happy birthday pineapple
Cristina, Gaby and Heather
Ready to grill
Grilling anticucho
Cristina's delicious tortilla
Bolivian backyard barbecue
Girls gone crazy!
Chicha-inspired backyard dancing
So it wasn't really until after I moved
out of the Arnez house that I got to experience Bolivian food in all
its glory, with my ever-diversifying diet. The Bolivian meal
tradition is that breakfast is usually a simple affair – an early
bread roll and coffee – and they usually have 'second breakfast' or
a mid-morning snack of something such as a salteña. I'm a big fan of
second breakfasts so enjoyed partaking in this tradition. Salteñas are little pockets of hard sweet pastry filled with mince, potatoes,
peas, one quail's egg and an olive, swimming in gravy (which makes
them tricky to eat without pouring brown sticky juice down your
front). Sold on most street corners for about 80c (50p) they fast
became my most-consumed food, and I soon found my two favourite
vendors in town.
Delicious
Donna enjoying a Saltena at Los Castores
Lunch (Almuerzo) is the main meal of
the day, and most people have 2 or 2 and a half hours off work for
lunch, giving them time to come home or go to a restaurant to have
the three-course meal traditionally eaten with one's entire family.
Little hole-in-the-wall places line most main roads, and they
advertise their 'Almuerzo Complet' each day, where for about $3 you
can get a starter (usually a stocky soup with pasta, rice or quinoa
and plenty of vegetables as well as some unidentifiable meat for
flavour), a main course (again usually rice, potatoes, meat and
occasionally some salad or veggies) and a desert (often jelly with
fruit suspended in it or some kind of rice pudding) accompanied by
fruit cordial. This tradition of eating a large hot meal in the heat
of the day definitely took some getting used to, but by the end of my
stay in Bolivia I was enjoying the sociable nature of this
arrangement and became used to eating the small dinner they tend to
follow it up with.
The other big tradition in Cochabamba
is the street food. Sydney may think it's all cool with its recent
trend of food trucks popping up on every street corner, but the
Bolivians were here first, serving all manner of food in the evening
from little caravan-esque trucks parked on the streets. Some of them
aren't even trucks, they are just a woman with a portable stove
parked somewhere for business. If you can cook, you can be very
enterprising in Bolivia. I have eaten Lomito (kind of like a veal
burger), Pico Macho (chips with chorizo, strips of beef, tomatoes,
onions and a boiled egg), Choripan (delicious chorizo sandwich),
tripitas (fried cow's bladder, I really didn't like this one) and my
favourite, Anticucho (cow's heart served with potatoes and a
delicious peanut sauce). The markets in Cochabamba were another thing
I loved. My local was '25 de Mayo', a large covered market where
ruthlessly negotiating people hold stalls selling all manner of fruit
and veg, meat and dry food. The biggest in Cochabamba is 'La Cancha',
a huge bustling market taking up several blocks where you can find
absolutely everything if you're prepared to search hard enough. When
my multi-plug adaptor broke I even found a single Aussie to Europe
adaptor which has since come in very handy.
With friends about to eat anticucho
Street vendor cooking anticucho
Alex selling sausages
Street butcher
Choripan
Lomito
Sopa de mani, my favourite soup
I also got the chance to cook in the
shared kitchen at Casa Principal a few times while in Bolivia – a
rare joy while travelling. Sustainable Bolivia hold regular
'charlas', or talks, where someone is invited to come and speak on a
particular topic and someone else makes a meal for everyone who comes
along to the discussion. They are usually held in the garden or art
studio and when we held a charla on 'Adoption in Bolivia' I cooked a
meat chili and a vego chili for about 30 people, which was lots of
fun! For the opening of the World Cup we had a 'bring a dish from
your country' night, so I made mini-pavlovas to represent Australia.
For the Cristo clean-up event, our friend Yudoska made massive vats
of 'mogonchinchi' for everyone – amazing boiled and chilled fruit
juice thing containing rehydrated dried peaches. And every Friday
morning after the Cristo clean-up we came back to Casa P to share
homemade pancakes.
Mini-pavs
Brazilian flag pancake
Mogonchinchi on the stove
Bottling mogonchinchi
Paul and Alex bottling
Paul bottling the lovely drink
The Cristo clean-up was an initiative which was born out of Sustainable Bolivia and was about cleaning up the litter around the city's main tourist attraction, the giant statue of Christ which watches over the city. The largest statue of Christ in the world (bigger than Christ the Redeemer) this is reached after a long walk up steep steps, which are unfortunately lined with litter. Every Friday morning we would get up before dawn and climb up to the Cristo, pick up litter for a couple of hours and head back down to Casa P. Little by little we were cleaning up the area and teaching others about our message of civic pride, litter-consciousness and sustainability. One large event on a Sunday garnered lots of media interest and glavanised the local community.
View of CBBA from the Cristo steps
Pathside litter
Some loon in legwarners
Cristo, with a little Alex for scale
Pre-dawn view of the Cristo from my yoga rooftop
Casa Principal became a real focal
point of my time in Cochabamba, and it's where I lived for the last
few weeks of my time there. The central point for Sustainable
Bolivia's operations it's a wonderful sprawling share-house with a
big garden perfect for outdoor screenings or yoga, a big kitchen, a
sunroom, lovely places to chill out or have Spanish lessons, a
kitchen garden where fruit and veggies grow and two resident dogs who
caused havoc and weedled their way into my heart. Charlas, parties,
gatherings and farewells are all held there, and it is the heart of
this great organisation.
Heather in the sunroom
Resident artist Ben preparing a canvas in the garden
Resident dog Pina having a snooze
Peruvian hairless Chuno models her new sweater
While in Cochabamba I spent some time
volunteering in the local children's hospital. I knew I wanted to do
some volunteering on my travels but I wasn't sure where. When
researching my way through the myriad of possibilities in South
America last year, I stumbled across Sustainable Bolivia and liked
their ethos and the kind of projects they are involved with. They
partner with over 30 organisations, and projects range from
orphanages, programs for street kids, shelters for abused women and
centres for kids whose parents are in jail, right through to
sustainability projects focusing on remote Andean communities with
little access to electricity or modern technology. The range of the
people and projects they support is magnificent, and their impact is
consequently surprisingly far-reaching. As some of my main interests
are about empowering women and living sustainably, I was drawn to
their values. Then on the 'testimonials' page on their website I saw
a friend who I had last seen at a wedding in the UK, smilingly saying
her three months there had been a joy and she enjoyed being able to
make a difference. Sold! I signed up and let them decide which
project to place me with.
Those of you who know me well will know
that I am incredibly squeamish and can't even watch hospital dramas
on TV, so the thought of working in a children's hospital was not the
most appealing. But I thought it might be a good thing to confront my
fears and see how I felt when on the ground. I mainly spent my time
in one of four wards – the ward for undernourished babies, the ward
for children who needed operations or were recovering from surgery,
the cancer ward and the burns ward. To be honest I spent most of my
time with the babies, because I felt I had more purpose there,
helping the doctors and nurses at feeding time, playing with the
babies when things were quiet and soothing them when they were
crying. Some of them were really tiny and looked much younger than
they actually were. But primarily I was struck by how smiley they
were, how happy they were to see me each day and the joy that filled
them, even when they were really sick. It made me feel that my work
there was valuable, even if I don't have any direct medical
experience to offer. For obvious reasons I haven't got any photos of
the children or inside the hospital, but I did meet some wonderful
kids and my time there will remain with me in my memory. I also spent
time colouring and doing puzzles with the older children who were
recovering from surgery. Some of these kids became my Spanish
teachers by default, as I tried to improve my language and
vocabulary. Others were from more remote areas of Bolivia and only
spoke Quechua, one of the main indigenous languages. The hardest ward
for me was the burns ward, as the kids in there were really badly
injured and their injuries were by default more on display. I found
this ward really challenging to spend time in, and often had to leave
because I felt faint. So it seems that by confronting my fears I
wasn't really curing them! But I'm glad I tried. The organisation
also runs a shelter for the families of some of these kids who can't
afford accommodation when they come to Cochabamba to be near their
child in hospital. They house and feed the families on only 50c a
day. In total, not per person! Astonishing. I was constantly filled
with admiration as to how resourceful and enterprising those running
these small NGOs were.
Caring for young girls in the community
A baby's clothes dry in the home for young victims of abuse
From victim to victor: teaching life skills to young women
Learning to weave
Learning to cook
Biblical quotes on the walls of the house
I met many other volunteers during my
time in CBBA, many of whom have stayed firm friends. It's such a
fantastic world to be a part of and I love the energy and enthusiasm
of those who choose to venture overseas and help those less fortunate
than themselves. Also when you have a wide range of experience,
skills and knowledge, you can make much more of an impact in a place
where those skills are in short supply. It felt so rewarding to be a
part of such a motivated and eclectic community.
Cristina, Heather and Anna
Gary
Serving Saltenas and Mogonchinchi with Sinja at the Cristo Clean-Up
With Heather and Cristina at Paul's despedida
I baked a banana cake and carrot cake for Ethan's 21st
Tap beer
A mariachi band for Ethan's 21st
With Canadian Mark
Some other scenes from Cochabamba life
are worth a mention. Dancing is a massive part of Bolivian culture,
in a way which really appealed to me. Every evening in our local
neighbourhood square, Plaza Sucre, the dancing began at around 8pm.
People would rock up with their portable stereos, pop them on the
ground in a corner or section of the square, and groups of people
would dance. But not just any old dancing. They have several set
dances where the steps must be learnt, rehearsed, refined and finally
performed. So each little gathering would be rehearsing a different
type of dance. I loved to wander through the square watching people
throw themselves into the dancing, of varying degrees of aptitude,
but united with their strong enthusiasm. This dancing culminates in
an annual performance during August when the streets are closed and
people dance all day. Unfortunately I left Bolivia before this
festival but luckily I was able to go and see a dress rehearsal of
the dances in Quillacollo, where the streets were all blocked off and
the dancers paraded for hours showing us their talent. Each group was
followed by a band of brass and drums, which led me to believe that
Bolivia has the highest per capita brass instrument players of
anywhere in the world. I took a few videos to show what the dancing
was like. My favourites are the Tinku and the Caporal.
Tinku
Caporal
Amazing heeled, corseted women
The bands
Also while I was there, as well as the
bloquao in Uyuni, there was a bus drivers' strike in Cochabamba.
Organised protests such as this are apparently common and very
effective. I'm not sure what they were protesting about exactly but
they closed off all the streets and effectively shut down the entire
city for the day! Early in the morning the drivers took their buses
and parked at diagonal angles across all of the main streets and
intersections, and left them there all day. It was great for us
spectators as we got to spend a day walking calmly through the
streets and not having to fear for our lives in the hectic traffic!
Some of the drivers played football in the streets. Others marched in
the squares. Everything shut down, people couldn't get anywhere and
there was strangely a carnival atmosphere. Although many of the
protests are trying to raise awareness of real injustices, there is
still an air of fiesta about Bolivian protests.
I was also there for the World Cup,
which screened on a giant screen in one of the main city squares.
Although both Australia and England performed pretty pitifully, it
was great to be in a South American city for this sporting event, as
the Latin Americans sure are passionate about 'futbol'.
Here are some other scenes from Cochabamba life.
So many wires
Ice cream place
Kids manning a stall
Do you think they pay royalties?
Main square
Watching a local futbol match
Mice living in an opticians case. Of course.
I also spent some time in Bolivia's capital city, La Paz.
But for me it was really the ordinary everyday people and scenes which really made me fall in love with Bolivia.